John Gilman 92+
The Gueguens parcel in the premier cru of Vosgros is planted with some of their younger vines, as they went into the ground in 1991, but are now a very good age at thirty years-old. The wine has turned out beautifully in this vintage, with the complex bouquet jumping from the glass in a mix of green apple, fresh lime, a fine base of wet stone minerality, citrus peel and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and racy, with a superb core of fruit, fine mineral drive and grip, bright acids and a long, complex and seamlessly balanced finish. Lovely juice.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050
A markedly more restrained and better layered nose displays notes of airy citrus, apple, seashore and oyster shell. The sleek, intense and nicely delineated flavors exude evident minerality on the saliva inducing, very dry and mildly austere finale. This is sufficiently compact to need at least a few years of keeping first.
The 2021 Chablis Vosgros 1er Cru, aged for 10 months in stainless steel, has a pretty and well-defined bouquet that develops attractive yellow plum and honeysuckle scents with aeration. The palate is well-defined with orange pith and light, white peppery notes. It remains quite linear and sappy in the mouth with a touch of sour lemon on the finish. I can see this evolving nicely in bottle – there’s pedigree in situ. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2032