Varner’s 2014 Chardonnay Home Block is painfully young and austere, almost a California version of Chablis in its piercing intensity until the fruit kicks in. But the weight and overall structure are very clearly those of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Lemon, flowers, white pepper and chalk are all nicely delineated throughout. Readers will have to be especially patient with the Home Block, as it is quite reticent at this stage.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2024
Smoky, lively, very lightly reductive nose. Pretty sweet and broad on the front palate. Tastes a bit more advanced – and jujube – than I would have expected from such a young wine. Lots of early reward. Nice backbone sneaks up on you though.
Anticipated maturity: 2015-2018
Robert Parker 94
Another sensational effort for these two brothers, the 2014 Chardonnay Home Block Spring Ridge Vineyard reveals more minerality, as well as medium to full-bodied richness, terrific purity and classic, tropical aromas and flavors. Expansive, gorgeously textured and balanced, drink this beauty over the coming 5-7 years.