Robert Parker 85-87
The 2014 Bourgogne Rouge, from the lieu-dit “Bons Batons” in Gilly, will include around 10% in the final blend. It has a light and crisp red cherry and raspberry-scented bouquet. The palate is light and crisp with fine, slightly hard tannin, but decent tart cherry fruit on the finish. Just a tad delicious. Readers wanting a fix of Ghislaine-Barthod, and I am assuming that is everyone, should see my article in this issue that examines vintages between 1988 and 2003 that I tasted in London. In the meantime, I pulled up early in the morning to find Ghislaine with that ever-permanent smile on her face, ready to guide me through her 2014s. She commenced the picking on September 14. Fortunately she did not have too much problem with the drosophila suzukii fruit fly, suffering just a minor infestation in the vines located in front of main house where they were attracted by the fruit trees. In any case, bunches were sorted rigorously upon entering the winery and she told me that the vinification passed normally, chaptalizing by nothing more than half a degree alcohol. She described the 2014s as wines that contained a lot of energy, as a “millésime digeste,” which I suppose you could translate as a vintage that you just want to pop ‘n pour, or more accurately, a vintage that beckons you to imbibe instead of intellectualize upon. Hmm…I agree to an extent, but perhaps Ghislaine is downplaying the sheer complexity that she has interwoven into her wines. It is probably the holdings located on the more clayey Premier Crus along Bonnes-Mares that really show the 2014 vintage at its best. These were beautifully fashioned, tensile wines with great poise and fruit intensity. In particular, the Les Fuées and Les Cras both demonstrated why they are revered as two of the appellation’s brightest stars. Also, her Les Véroilles is growing in my estimation — just a superb wine. Not everything quite hits the spot. I was looking for a little more complexity in the Chambolles Les Charmes, but otherwise, this was a raft of sublime wines from Ghislaine Barthod.
Anticipated maturity: 2016-2020
A favourite with many burgundy lovers! Lots of meat and delivery even if little subtlety. Slightly raw red fruits which may well soften.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2023