Robert Parker 94-96
The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which is raised in one-third new oak and includes 20% stems, has a slightly sultry nose at first and demands encouragement, reluctantly revealing scents of blackberry, briary and granite. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This feels much more composed on the palate than on the nose at the moment, but there is wonderful length and the new oak is seamlessly integrated. Not quite up there with the ethereal 2012, but still this represents a worthy follow-up. Before we entered the Lignier’s gite that imposes upon the courtyard, Laurent showed me around their renovated cellars built to accommodate their expanding portfolio, partly from fermage agreements entered into by Laurent and partly from the resolution of the court case with his late brother’s widow. The space was much needed. When I visited last year things were becoming cramped in the cellar, but having excavated underneath the vat-room there’s now sufficient space for their expanding portfolio and also to allow the wine to be transferred from vat to barrel by gravity. This is a domaine moving forward after a tumultuous few years. The constant in all this is Hubert Lignier whose first vintage was 1959 (just feel his calloused hands if you don’t believe me.). He appears to have decided not to age every time I see him, which is great to see. Hubert joined us as we tasted through both their 2013s and their bottled 2012s, which will appear in a separate report.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040