Tasting Notes
Robert Parker 92
The Dujac 2007 Bonnes Mares displays a wild berry concentration and pungent, resinous and horehound-like herbal notes I associate with this site. Dark suggestions of game probably offer a glimpse of the evolution to come, though this is corseted with fine-grained tannin and an almost stony undertone takes on unexpected prominence in its forceful, gripping finish. Here’s one 2007 almost sure to be worth following for close to a decade. The Dujac 2008s were not racked until last December, and bottling took place January through March. a oeThe malic acid numbers were high-ish, but not significantly higher than in, say, 2006 or 2001,a says Jeremy Seysses in an effort to explain what he admitted were a oefor us, excessively late malos. I have a feeling it was a lack of nutrients that were wash out,a he continues, since, after all, a oeit rained a lot in 2008a with, he adds, a oepoor fruit set proving to be the vintage’s saving grace. I think we would actually have had less to harvest (i.e. worth keeping) if we had had a better fruit set. There was rot, but can you find it in any of the wines? That’s a credit to how far Burgundy has come along in terms of sortinga (which Dujac does exclusively in the vineyard, not on sorting tables " the name of their U.S. importer ironically notwithstanding). a oeI didn’t love my lack of options in 2007,a says Seysses of the preceding season, a oeso we picked early " earlier even than in 2003.a In vinification a oewe decided not to force too much, and just to keep it charming,a which is exactly how I thought the wines turned out. a oeAt Domaine Dujac, we’re never been that attached to deep color, so we’re quite tolerant (in that regard), and the least thing we wanted to do was make hard wines. I de-stemmed more (than usual, or than in 2008). The fruit felt fragile, so in barrel I kept the wines under a bit more free sulfur than usual, which reinforced their lightness.a Seysses opines that 2007 was not a year in which old selections displayed their overall superiority to clones, because a oeif yo(‘re Pinots) were riper earlier, you were ripe while it was raining,a whereas in 2008 you could scarcely get too much ripeness. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020
Vinous 89
I have never been completely convinced by Dujac’s wines this vintage and on this occasion it is surpassed by Bertheau’s Amoureuses. Deep in colour with some bricking on the rim, the nose offers red fruit, burnt toast and bell pepper, just a little muddled, to be truly honest. The palate has a strong stemminess that occludes the terroir expression. Yes, it is fresh and enjoyable, but I feel the stems dictates this Bonnes-Mares to its detriment. Tasted at The Glasshouse restaurant.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2026
JancisRobinson.com 17.5
Much more stuffing and substance than the Clos de la Roche. Lots of fruit and a bit of focus. Certainly clean but the tannins are not as ripe as in some other Dujac 2007s. This is far from well integrated though it may all come together? Crunchy fruit.
Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020
