Medium red. Subdued aromas of redcurrant, smoke and crushed almond took on a mineral tone with aeration. Silky and plush but firm, with red berry and tobacco flavors coating the mouth and rising impressively on the very long, gripping finish. The tannins are quite fine. This boasts terrific fat for the vintage and has turned out very well.
Robert Parker 92
The Mugnerets’ 2006 Ruchottes-Chambertin is lithe and bright; leaner than most of its stable mates; but full of dynamic complexity. Sappy red fruits; oily, sweet and piquant blond Virginia tobacco; smoked meats; and hints of vanilla and caramel from barrel weave in and out across of finely-textured though amply tannic palate. The finish really clings and stimulates, and I expect this will improved with 3-4 years of bottle age and be worth following for an additional 8-10. The Mugneret sisters engaged in serious triage and crop-dropping in their vineyards in early September, obviating, they claimed, the need for more than modest additional culling on sorting tables. They report having had to be vigilant during fermentations that had a natural tendency to run warm and fast, and gentle in extraction in order to preserve the naturally forward fruitiness which they said was immediately evident from the aromas when fermentation commenced, and which reminds them most of 1997, though ultimately with more structure. Like many growers, the Mugnerets were surprised at the levels of potential alcohol reached by their crop given the meteorological conditions, but they stuck by their regimen of light chaptalization in order to, they insist, beneficially extend the fermentations ” an approach which at this address no one I know has ever accused of diminishing potential elegance, or clarity of fruit. “Chaptalization has an unjustly bad name,” adds Marie-Christine Mugneret to reinforce their point. (Incidentally, although there have been plans to legally reconstitute this estate under a single name, each of its appellations continues for now to belong to either Domaine Georges Mugneret or Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, a distinction I have intentionally blurred in referring to the wines of this cellar by the hybrid name “Georges Mugneret Gibourg” which its proprietors hope will eventually become official.) A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022