Good full red. Reticent aromas of black cherry and licorice. Dense and lusher than the CSJ but showing less inner-mouth perfume and lift today. In fact, this is quite clenched and hard to taste. Impressively thick for the vintage, and elegant in spite of its size. But this powerful Griottes will need at least a decade of bottle aging (especially so now that Fourrier seals his corks with wax). The tannins are broad and serious but not hard.
Robert Parker 95
An implosive concentration of dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, brown spices and black pepper marks the nose and palate of Fourrier’s 2006 Griotte-Chambertin, which for all of its (in this vintage uncommon) density and sheer ripeness preserves buoyancy and clarity, letting a shower of spices, flowers, and crystalline, chalky mineral nuances burst forth in its finish. This is one of those wines that seems as though a complex chemical equation should exist to describe the catalytic, energy-releasing reaction among its parts. But there is more finesse and mystery hidden behind this wine detonative finish than tasters will ever get to the bottom of, with or without the assistance of mathematical models. I would wait at least a half dozen years to broach a cork – for now, the Clos St.-Jacques is more enticing, yet it too needs time – and would plan on this Griotte being a 15 or more year keeper and as such one of the longest-lasting monuments to a vintage whose potential for beauty is probably destined to remain forever under-rated. Eyebrows as well as stakes in the Burgundy-buying game were raised when the prices of certain Fourrier 2006s came out well above those of 2005. Time will of course tell whether this new positioning “sticks,” but there can be no overlooking either the consistently excellent results Jean-Marie Fourrier achieves, nor the extreme paucity and remarkable quality of his two most celebrated bottlings, particularly in this vintage. Jean-Claude Fourrier – with whom I tasted the majority of his son’s 2006s – told me that contrary to usual practice here, the stems were removed from all of the fruit this year, because none were really ripe (i.e. truly lignified). (For more about Fourrier’s always articulately and thoughtfully expressed methods, consult my report in issue 170.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024