Robert Parker 89
The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Volnay Champans, from a 4-hectare parcel where 50% of the vines are 40 years of age and the balance over 10 years, displays a sweet blackberry nose. Medium-bodied, this wine has an excellent depth of fruit, a supple, velvety texture, and a fresh personality. Loads of intense blackberry, cassis, plum, and spice flavors can be found in its juicy and expressive character. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725.
Anticipated maturity: 2001-2009
The 1999 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, which Guillaume d’Angerville told me that he opened the previous night, has an intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, damp earth and spice. The palate is medium-bodied, quite firm tannin, a little rustic but it is endowed with great structure and density. It is a muscular Champans that perhaps reflects the growing season more than the terroir at the moment and personally I would be inclined to afford it more time in the cellar. Tasted at the domaine.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035