The 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru puts in a rather disappointing performance. At 20 years of age, it shows some bricking on the rim. The bouquet starts off well, offering generous red berry fruit and a touch of menthol, but with aeration it develops a more herbaceous character and then an element that is almost fecal. The palate is medium-bodied and more cohesive than the aromatics, delivering fine tannin and notes of candied orange peel filtered through the red berry fruit. It lacks some finesse and shows just a touch of VA on the finish. Is there also a touch of brettanomyces here? This should be better. Tasted at the Clos de Tart vertical at Ten Trinity in London.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2022
Robert Parker 88
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot’s retirement from the domaine, the 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a far more mature nose than the 1999; it is a little smudged and earthy, more rustic than I was expecting. The palate foundation is dry with obdurate tannins and plenty of mushroom notes (morels), with a masculine and tertiary finish. I suspect that there might be better bottles than this, but if I had any of my own, I would be inclined to drink them in the next three or four years. Tasted September 2015.
Anticipated maturity: 2015-2019