Good medium red with a faint amber tinge. Less fruit and more soil and game on the nose than the ’97. Dense and sappy in the mouth, showing good plummy lift but also an edgy quality to its fruit component. Can’t match the ’97 or ’99 for dimension but then this wine is rather tight and ungiving. Still, it appears to possess the tension and verve to continue to evolve positively. Finishes with tannins that dust the front teeth. Barnier says his colleagues at Jadot are not yet drinking their top ’96 reds, but I wonder if this wine will ever truly blossom in bottle. Saline but not particularly sweet or rich, in the style of many wines from this vintage.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2030