Robert Parker 95
The 1995 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was described as “sometimes, a great surprise” by Guillaume d’Angerville – which is exactly what this was. Clearly riper on the nose than the ’96, the fruit redder in profile with luscious wild strawberry, quince and red plum scents, edging towards kirsch-like scents with aeration, this is just a gorgeous Clos des Ducs to simply nose. The palate is very fleshy, almost corpulent in the mouth, almost viscous in texture with an elegant, saline finish. This is just divine with the substance to suggest another 15 to 20 years service.
Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030
Harvested 26th September to 1st of October. A complex, savory nose. A bigger, masculine vintage, although the famed 1995 tannins have melted completely away. Good fruit, good balance. Drinking well now and should hold for years. A very pleasant surprise.
Guillaume d’Angerville: ‘I don’t drink 1995s very often. Jacques described them as rather middle of the road’, but the Norwegian burgundy specialist at the tasting suggested it must have been a very good road. Harvest 30 September, yield 28 hl/ha, pH 3.36. Very vegy and rich on the nose. Sweet and round. Quite delicate and racy. Lacy texture. Transparent. Chewy and unyielding but very noble and typical. There really isn’t too much of a gulf between the 1996 and the 1995.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035